According to the generally accepted opinion, feeding Japanese Chin is unprofitable, since the breed is unpretentious in food. In fact, everything is a little more complicated.
Special the snub-nosed structure of the muzzle is the highlight and the Achilles heel of the breed. While the four-legged is healthy, he can sniffle, snore and grunt funny. Japanese chin with obesity (and overweight in dogs is considered a pathology) is not easy to grunt, but it experiences oxygen starvation, it is not easy to snore, and it cannot sleep fully and deeply. Japanese hins in good physical shape are prone to receive heat stroke, and being overweight, that is, fat, is a source of additional heating for the body, you can draw your own conclusions.
Japanese chin puppies are born with short hair and only at the age of 15 months, they "acquire" a decorating hair. The appearance, structure, luster and density of the elongated spine can be considered as the main, visually understandable indicator of the physical condition of the dog. The conclusion is obvious, the diet of Japanese chin and balanced feeding is not a whim, but a conscious concern for the health and longevity of the pet.
The first 30-35 days after birth, only the mother will feed the Japanese chin puppy. Further, the breeder will begin to introduce complementary foods and, depending on preferences, this may be:
- Stuffing, milk, egg.
- Ready-made feed paste or pieces with gravy.
Before moving to a new house, i.e. up to 2.5-3 months of age, babies actively try adult food and learn to chew. The task of the new owner is to minimize the stress of moving and maintain the familiar pace of life. At 3 months of age, puppies eat 4-5 times a day. By the age of six months, the number of feedings is reduced to three, to the one-year-old - to two.
At the first stage, when the baby adapts to an unfamiliar environment, he should receive the usual food (natural or industrial) in the same schedule. After 10-14 days of cohabitation, you can make adjustments to the feeding schedule and transfer the puppy to another type of food (for example, from industrial canned goods to natural food).
Note! If the breeder fed the puppies cheap industrial feeds, it is better to go to extreme measures and change the type of ration immediately after the move. If the breeder fed the puppies with good quality dry food, extend this diet, but soak the pellets in warm water 10 minutes before serving (even if the breeder did not).
At 4-5 months of age, puppies begin milk teeth change and this is a very important stage. Until this time, you should have time to compile and adjust the pet's diet to his needs. Puppies are much more in need of dairy, calcined products than in pure meat. The total mass fraction of protein foods should be up to 50% of the total diet. It is useful to feed the puppy boiled egg yolks 1 / 2-1 / 3 every other day or two.
During the change of teeth is necessary strictly monitor the condition of the coat and the rate of teething. If the dog’s body lacks calcium or other trace elements, you will notice a dull coat and a slower tooth change. Calcium deficiency should be avoided by all means, but be careful - an excess of trace elements can adversely affect the condition of the kidneys. If Japanese chin became your first pet and you are not sure of the correctness of your actions, be sure to contact your veterinarian or breeder for advice.
Important! Particular care must be taken with products and supplements containing vitamin C. On the one hand, vitamin is not synthesized in the animal’s body, but it is needed. On the other hand, an excess of vitamin detrimental to liver health is a feature of Japanese chins.
Diet Type Selection
Perhaps the most important decision to be taken by the new owner is the choice of the type of diet. For each option, you can find the pros and cons, but do not forget that you need to be guided only by the needs of the dog.
First option - natural feeding:
- pros - the most natural type of food; suggests a taste variety; served warm, which means it is better absorbed; the second option is cheap.
- Minuses - cooking every day / every other day, because the dog should receive quality food, and not the rest from the table; the usefulness and naturalness of store products can be argued; for some owners, it’s quite expensive to buy home-made products.
- porridge from meat (beef, rabbit, turkey), vegetables and cereals;
- fruits, raw and frozen foods;
- milk, eggs (chicken and quail);
- Ocean fish
- oils and vitamin supplements.
It’s good and tasty, but it requires strict accounting of needs by age, season, activity, health status, etc. In addition, it is rare, but there are allergic Japanese hins, for which it is quite difficult to choose a safe and complete diet.
Second option - natural feeding with the manufacture of semi-finished products from meat and vegetables. The pros and cons are the same with the exception of time. It takes a day or two to make blanks (frozen, canned), you need to buy products, prepare and pack them. The advantage is that the workpiece just needs to be mixed with porridge or heated.
The third option is industrial feeding:
- pros - finished food, so you can forget about pots; convenient to store; it is convenient to dose and select a daily rate.
- Minuses - cost; many nuances of choice.
Difficulties of choice are associated with the quality of products, which does not always correspond to the declared.
Economy feed - The cheapest option for feeding (although some manufacturers do not take this argument into account). Experienced pet owners call these foods “horns and hooves,” since these are the ingredients that are meant by the intricate term “animal squirrels.” Cornmeal, beans, salts, flavor enhancers, dyes, preservatives - a "nice bonus", which is guaranteed to harm the health of the pet.
Super premium and premium feed - the widest range of industrial feed, but also the most dubious. Some manufacturers proudly call premium pure economy. According to the claimed qualities, the premium is partially fortified, and the super-premium is fully functional. There is only one conclusion - read the composition of the feed and if you do not understand what is written there, think about it! Does the manufacturer need to describe the composition of good feed using obscure terms?
Holistic class - The best dry food for Japanese chin, but also the most expensive. The products are made from natural products, have a very limited shelf life, contain a full range of vitamins and minerals.
Note! Industrial products are also divided by type: dry, semi-moist and wet food for Japanese chin. Drying is the most affordable price; moist food (paste) is the most expensive.
Feeding adult and older dogs, special recommendations
Adult Japanese chins are small, moderately active dogs with relatively modest carbohydrate requirements. However, a balanced diet should take into account the content of rich wool and teeth, which do not always close correctly, which means that they deteriorate faster with a deficiency of trace elements.
The main element of the diet of an adult and an elderly dog is a protein. The mass fraction of protein food in the daily diet should not be lower than 2/3. Since Japanese chins tend to eat more than necessary and quickly gain weight, it is better to use dietary meat and offal as a source of protein.
Note! Dogs 7 years of age and older are recommended to take courses of specialized vitamin supplements to strengthen bone and joint tissues.
The older a dog becomes, the slower its metabolism. This feature is inherent in all animals (and humans). A four-legged can intentionally avoid protein food, as it takes longer to digest. It’s important not to lose sight of the growing need for fatty acids. Omega 6 and Omega 3 are important for tetrapods at any age, but for older dogs, they are vital. Fatty acid source - This is fish (oceanic) and oil.
Important! Vegetable oils are added to the dog’s food courses, because their constant use can lead to intestinal upset and reduce its effectiveness.